The legend of the calafate says that whoever eats the fruit of this Patagonian shrub will return to Patagonia. The calafate ( Berberis microphylla ) is a thorny shrub with yellow flowers and dark blue berries that ripen in summer. It is so characteristic of the region that it gave its name to the town of El Calafate, the gateway to Los Glaciares National Park.
René's grandfather, our founder, arrived in Patagonia in 1886, and since 1980 we have seen this shrub grow on the shores of Lake Argentino every time we go sailing.
What is calafate?
It is a shrub native to Patagonia that grows both in the steppe and at the edge of the forest. It is recognized by:
- Thorns: branches with thorns in groups, which protect it from herbivores.
- Sheets: small, hard, and green.
- Flowers: yellow, small, in spring.
- Fruits: Round, dark blue or purplish berries with seeds, ripening in summer.
The flavor is sweet and slightly acidic, and the pulp stains your fingers and tongue purple. It's a surefire clue as to who's been eating calafates.
A bush made for the wind
Everything about the calafate bush is a response to the Patagonian climate. Its small, tough leaves lose little water in a region where the wind dries everything out; its thorns protect it from animals seeking greenery on the steppe; and its low, branching habit allows it to withstand the gusts. This is why it thrives both in the dry surroundings of the town and on the edges of the forest, closer to the Andes Mountains. The berries, in turn, are food for many birds, which, by eating them, disperse the seeds and help the shrub colonize new areas.
The legend of the calafate: whoever eats it, returns
The phrase everyone hears upon arrival is simple: “Whoever eats calafate berries will return.” Behind it lies a story attributed to the Tehuelche tradition, circulating in various versions. According to one of the most common tales, an old woman who could no longer follow her people on their migrations was left alone on the steppe during the winter. The birds that kept her company flew away with the cold. To bring them back, she was transformed into a shrub with yellow flowers and sweet berries. Since then, the birds return every season, drawn by its berries, and whoever tastes them becomes bound to this land.
Like any legend passed down orally, the details change depending on who tells it. What doesn't change is the promise of return, which many travelers fulfill.
Why is the town called El Calafate?
Because of the abundance of this shrub in the area where the town was formed, on the southern shore of Lake Argentino. The place was a stopover and resting spot, and the calafate bush, always present, ended up giving it its name. If you're interested in how it went from a small settlement to a city, read the history of El Calafate.
When can you eat calafate?
| Station | What are you going to see in the bush? |
|---|---|
| Spring | yellow flowers |
| Summer | Berries that ripen and turn dark blue |
| Fall | Last fruits, leaves changing color |
| Winter | Fruitless shrub, thorns in sight |
Out of season, the flavor of calafate is still present in sweets, ice creams and liqueurs prepared in the region, so the legend can be fulfilled at any time of the year.
Where to see calafates on your trip
They grow in the areas surrounding the town, for example in the Laguna Nimez Reserve, and along the road to the ports. At Spegazzini Base, during the All Glaciers Navigation tour , the trail's flora station showcases the plants that coexist with glaciers. To identify the other species, see our article on the Patagonian Andean forest.
A fruit to be regarded with respect
Within Los Glaciares National Park, the rule is not to remove any plants, fruits, or natural elements. The calafate berry is a food source for birds and other animals and is part of the ecosystem that the Park protects. Try it in town and leave the Park's shrubs as you found them.
To return, as the legend says
Many of our passengers return years later and tell us it was because of El Calafate. If you're planning your first trip, start with the glaciers: check out the All Glaciers Navigation tour and see the availability and current rates on the tour's website.
FAQ
What does the legend of the calafate say?
It is said that whoever eats the calafate fruit will return to Patagonia. This is attributed to Tehuelche tradition and exists in various versions.
What is calafate?
It is a native shrub of Patagonia, Berberis microphylla, with thorns, yellow flowers and dark blue berries with a sweet and somewhat acidic taste.
When does the calafate berry ripen?
It blooms in spring and its berries ripen in summer, when they turn a dark blue color.
Why is El Calafate called that?
Because of the abundance of this shrub in the area of the southern coast of Lake Argentino where the town was formed.
Is it possible to collect calafate berries within the National Park?
No. In Los Glaciares National Park, no plants, fruits, or natural elements are removed.
