The La Leona River originates in Lake Viedma and flows into Lake Argentino. It runs south through a steppe valley and serves as the natural outlet for Lake Viedma. Route 40 crosses it halfway between El Calafate and El Chaltén, near the historic La Leona rest stop, and its turquoise color against the ochre landscape is one of the most iconic images of the trip.
We navigate the two lakes this river connects: Lake Argentino, on the All Glaciers Navigation, and Lake Viedma, on the Viedma Adventure. That's why it holds a special place in our hearts: it's the thread of water that connects our two workplaces.
Where is the La Leona River and which way does it flow?
The river flows from the eastern end of Lake Viedma and runs south through a wide valley surrounded by plateaus until it empties into Lake Argentino. It flows in that direction for a simple reason: Lake Viedma is at a higher elevation than Lake Argentino, so the water seeks the lower level.
For those traveling along Route 40 from El Calafate, the river appears after a long stretch of steppe. The road follows part of its valley and crosses it near the rest stop. It is, literally, halfway between the two lakes.
The journey of water: from the Viedma Glacier to the Atlantic Ocean
The La Leona River is a link in a chain of waterways that begins in the ice and ends in the sea. Following its course is one of the best ways to understand the geography of southern Santa Cruz.
- Southern Patagonian Ice Field. The snow accumulates and transforms into glacial ice.
- Viedma Glacier. The largest ice field in Los Glaciares National Park carries that ice to Lake Viedma, where it melts or breaks off in icebergs.
- Lake Viedma. It receives snowmelt and water from other mountain rivers.
- La Leona River. It flows from Viedma and carries its water south, across the steppe.
- Lake Argentino. It receives the contribution of La Leona, in addition to the melting of glaciers such as the Upsala and the Spegazzini.
- Santa Cruz River. It flows east from Lake Argentino and empties into the Atlantic Ocean.
In other words, some of the water that is currently frozen in the Viedma Glacier will one day flow under the Route 40 bridge and end up in Lake Argentino, the lake we sail on towards the glaciers of the North Arm. To find out which lake it will reach, see the information on Lake Argentino , and to follow the water to the sea, see the Santa Cruz River.
Why is the La Leona River turquoise?
The color comes from glacial flour: very fine rock particles ground down by glaciers as they slide across the lakebed. These particles remain suspended in the water of Lake Viedma and scatter the light, giving it that milky turquoise hue. The river inherits the color of the lake from which it flows.
The effect is all the more striking because of the contrast: everything around it is ochre, straw-colored, or gray, and suddenly a ribbon of intense blue water appears. In sunlight, the turquoise glows brightly; under cloudy skies, it turns grayish-green. We explain this in detail in our article on why Lake Argentino is turquoise.
The name: Moreno and the lioness
The river's name is attributed to the explorer Francisco P. Moreno, who explored the region in the 1870s. According to the most widespread account, he was attacked by a female puma on the riverbanks, and thus named it La Leona (The Lioness): in Patagonia, the puma was called a "lion." The roadside inn next to the river took the same name. We tell the story of the inn, its travelers, and legends in Parador La Leona.
What to look for when you pass by the La Leona River
The stop in the river valley is short, but there's plenty to see if you know where to look:
- Water. Its color and its current, which feels firm even though the valley is open.
- The shores. Green bushes and shrubs that take advantage of the moisture, in contrast to the dry steppe of the plateaus.
- The birds. The river and its banks attract waterfowl, and birds of prey often perch on nearby posts.
- The plateaus. The stepped edges of the valley show how water and ice shaped this landscape over thousands of years.
- The sky. On windy days, lenticular clouds appear, shaped like a plate, typical of Patagonia.
To see the rest of the landscape surrounding the river, we recommend the Patagonian steppe on the way to El Chaltén.
How to cross the La Leona River on the way to the Viedma Glacier
The Viedma Full Day Adventure departs from El Calafate by bus from your hotel, travels along Route 40, and makes its first stop at Parador La Leona, by the river. It then continues to Puerto Bahía Túnel for a 4-hour boat trip on Lake Viedma, including a hike to the viewpoint overlooking the Bay of Icebergs and a close-up view of the Viedma Glacier. The day concludes with a visit to El Chaltén and a hike to the Chorrillo del Salto waterfall. Tours run from 7:30 AM to 19:30 PM daily from September to April, and every other day plus Saturdays from May to August. Check the tour's website for departure schedules, availability, and current rates.
FAQ
Which lakes does the La Leona River connect?
It connects Lake Viedma, where it originates, with Lake Argentino, where it flows into it. It is the natural outlet of Lake Viedma.
Which way does the La Leona River flow?
It runs south, from Lake Viedma to Lake Argentino, because Lake Viedma is at a higher altitude.
Why is she called The Lioness?
According to the most widely circulated account, the expert Francisco P. Moreno was attacked by a female puma on the banks of the river in the 1870s and named it after him.
Where does the La Leona River cross on Route 40?
Approximately halfway between El Calafate and El Chaltén, next to the La Leona Inn.
Why is the La Leona River turquoise?
Because of the glacial flour it brings from Lake Viedma: very fine rock particles in suspension that scatter light.
